Chickpea Flour (Besan) Soup

Although I was born in Argentina and carnivory runs deep through my veins, I love pulses (legumes) more with each passing day, due to their flavor, their versatility and their great potential for sustainable production.  I’m especially curious about chickpea flour (besan in India, shiro in Ethiopia) with its high-protein and low glycemic index awesomeness. Here’s a recipe, a variant of the one I found HERE (but which originally came from this exciting book):

Ingredients

For the broth

  • Water (or your favorite vegetable/chicken/meat/bone broth): 4 cups (use only 2 if using the chile ancho’s soaking water)
  • Garlic: 2 large cloves, peeled and chopped/sliced fine (no need to chop if using chile ancho and/or onion)
  • Olive oil, extra virgin: 1/4 cup
  • Cumin, ground: 2 teaspoons. Can also add a few cumin seeds.
  • Salt: 1 teaspoon
  • Optional: Onion, small, 1/2-1, cut coarsely.
  • Optional: Chile ancho, or other dried, colorful, not-too-hot pepper, rehydrated ahead of time (at least 30 minutes) in 2 cups of water. (Keep the water!)

For the besan

  • Water, cold, 2 cups
  • Chickpea flour / besan / shiro: 1 cup

For the finish

  • Green onion (scallion), thinly sliced: 1
  • Lemon juice: 2 lemons
  • Black pepper, to taste

Procedure

For the broth

  1. If you’re using the chile ancho, squeeze liquid back into the soaking water, split the pepper open, remove the seeds and stem, chop the pepper into a few pieces, put it in a food processor, and pulse a couple of times. You’ll want to use the soaking water as part of your 4 cups of broth, but remove the seeds first.
  2. If using onion, add to the food processor, along with the garlic. Pulse a few more times until the mix is still a little chunky. If you’re not using the chile ancho or the onion, just skip to step 3 and chop your garlic fine.
  3. Put about a tablespoon of the olive oil in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. When hot, sauté the garlic, onions, pepper and cumin for 2-5 minutes so the flavors are released. You don’t want any of it to burn, or your soup will taste bitter.
  4. Add the rest of the oil, the rest of the water / broth (including the chile soaking water if you used that, for a total of 4 cups) and the salt.
  5. Bring it to a boil over medium heat, while you move on to the next step.

For the besan

  1. Put the chickpea flour in a mixing bowl, then add about half the reserved cold water, mix/whisk, and keep adding the water until you have a smooth mixture.The idea here is simple: If you try to add the chickpea flour directly to the boiling broth, your soup will be irremediably lumpy, but you can get a smooth, lump-free mixture by combining the flour and cold water  mixture.
  2. After the broth in the saucepan has boiled for about a minute, whisk the flour mixture into it. Stir a few times while the mix reaches a boil again. It will thicken (to the consistency of heavy cream) after about 2-3 minutes of boiling.
  3. If your soup gets too thick for your liking, mix in a little more water.

  For the finish

  1. Stir in the lemon juice
  2. Ladle into bowls, and serve topped with the green onions and black pepper to taste.

For me, this recipe has huge potential: it’s very fast to prepare, filling and nutritious to boot. The challenge is to make the initial broth flavorful enough to be interesting. My use of the chile ancho (a dried ripe poblano pepper) is a move in that direction, because chile ancho provides interesting color and flavor without a lot of heat. The onions are another step in the same direction. You may want to explore other options like soaking kelp (kombu) or shiitake mushrooms in your water to add extra flavor, as well as starting with vegetable, chicken or bone broth instead of water.

20160830 Chickpea Flour Soup

Moth Beans

About 20 years ago I was exposed to crop simulation modeling. I was instantly hooked. Over the next few years I worked intensely on simulating the effect of water stress on peanuts and other legumes. I’ve remained a sucker for drought-tolerant pulses ever since.

I recently ran into moth beans (Vigna aconitifolia, pronounced “moad”) at a great Indian grocery store in St. Louis. I learned that they are highly drought-tolerant, and couldn’t resist the urge to buy some and cook them. I found several recipes online; what follows was taken from HERE, where there are step-by-step instructions with pictures.

The results are great: moth beans have a nutty flavor and a fun (rather firm) texture. It was interesting to sprout the beans ahead of cooking them. It took about a day and a half for mine to start sprouting (I bundled the soaked beans in cheesecloth and hung the bundle from the pot rack over our kitchen counter)

Ingredients

  • Moth beans (matki): ½ cup
  • Oil: 1 tablespoon
  • Cumin seeds: 1 teaspoon
  • Onion: ⅓ cup, chopped
  • Green chilies: 1, finely chopped
  • Tomato: ½ cup, chopped
  • Coriander powder: ½ teaspoon
  • Cumin powder: 1 teaspoon
  • Turmeric powder: ¼ teaspoon
  • Red chili powder: 1 teaspoon
  • Water: 1 ¼ cups
  • Lemon juice: 1 ½ teaspoons
  • Cilantro or coriander leaves: few, finely chopped

Procedure

  1. Wash the beans under running cold water until the water runs clear.
  2.  Soak the beans in water for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. Discard the water and keep the drained beans aside.
  3. Alternatively, sprout the beans after soaking them (keeping them in a well-ventilated bundle at room temperature for about 36 hours, and misting or wetting them when they dry out.)
  4. Heat the oil in a pressure cooker (alternatively a conventional pot such as an enameled Dutch oven) on medium heat.
  5. Once the oil is hot, add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle.
  6. Add the onion and green chili plus a little salt. Sauté until the onions get translucent.
  7. Mix in the tomatoes; add all the dry spices and remaining salt. Sauté for a minute.
  8. Add drained beans and the water. Cover the pressure cooker and let it whistle 5-6 times on medium heat. (Alternatively, boil in a Dutch oven for about an hour.)
  9. Turn off the stove and let the pressure reduce by itself.
  10. Open the lid, add lemon juice and cilantro.
  11. Mix well and serve (e.g., on white rice).

Moth beans.jpg

A pot of moth beans (recipe quadrupled–you can never have too much of these!)